A Wellness Retreat: St. Lucia’s StolenTime Resort

 

A rainbow greeted us upon our arrival to StolenTime Resort, which I took as a good omen. PHOTO: Holly Corbett

In today’s fast-paced world, couples may be more plugged in to their devices, the news cycle, and work and family obligations than to each other. I’m fully behind the new adage that “couples that unplug together stay together.” That’s why I chose to celebrate my 10-year-wedding anniversary in the “honeymoon capital of the Caribbean” at St. Lucia’s aptly-named StolenTime Resort.

Time is a finite commodity. It’s something that we can’t make more of, and in my second half of life I’m feeling an even greater pull to be more intentional about spending it well. Yet I find myself scrolling or getting caught up in the busyness of daily life without spending enough time reconnecting with myself and my loved ones. Sometimes it takes getting away to get me out of autopilot. The time my partner, Matt, and I spent living in the present moment at StolenTime was a tremendous gift.

The wellness destination is an all-inclusive, and only recently moved from a couples-only resort to an adults-only resort. Reconnection remains at the heart of StolenTime’s vibe, with well-being at the core of its offerings. Here is what to expect during a visit, and how we choose to spend our time at StolenTime.

The History

The setting itself encourages relaxation, with cottages and suites built on a powder-soft white-sand beach, the soundtrack being palm leaves rustling in the ocean breeze, the signature scent being fresh saltwater air, and ample sunshine to soak up (unless you’re lounging on one of the many beach chairs under an umbrella). 

The Barnard family, whose ancestors have lived on the island since the 1800s, bought this beach-front property in the 1950s as a family retreat. The family was in the coal business, and also grew sugar, coconut, bananas and eventually founded a rum distillery. They also loved to entertain, and when visitors strolling the beach saw the bar the Barnard family built for their personal retreat, they mistakenly thought it was a public establishment and ordered drinks and food. The story goes that the owner Denis was happy to invite guests into his home. They eventually built small cottages for visitors to sleep in that expanded into a full-fledged resort.

Today they call the retreat StolenTime, centering it on the philosophy, “It’s about time you introduced your body to your mind.” StolenTime’s grounds are dotted with guest suites and cottages, pools, a spa, a Champagne bar, and three restaurant options. Well-maintained paths are lined with lush gardens and plenty of lounge chairs set up in pockets of nature for privacy. There is a 130-year-old Samaan tree in the center of it all, with a trunk as thick as a cottage and branches that seem to stretch out for miles, adorned in hanging vines, twinkle lights, and a chair swing that invites couples to sit down together and gaze up at the stars.

The Vibe

This isn’t modern-day luxury, but an old-world charm that truly grew on us as our time at the resort went on. It felt as if time slowed down, and a large part of that feeling may have been that the use of devices and wi-fi is discouraged in the common areas (though wi-fi is available throughout the property, most guests logged on only when in their rooms).

I’ll admit I felt a little jittery on day one, as if I was missing something because I didn’t have my cell phone at my fingertips to fill up quiet moments checking messages or scrolling. But that feeling soon faded as I laid next to Matt on a double lounge chair in the secluded Secret Garden River, attempting to read a book but being lulled to sleep by the sound of the birds and the sun on my face.

Relaxation areas in the Secret Garden River at StolenTime. PHOTO: Holly Corbett

Since the buildings were separate rather than one single structure, guests are naturally immersed in nature, needing to walk the tree-lined paths or across the gardens or along the beach to get where they are going. More time spent in nature reminded me how healing it is to be outside immersed in plants and birds and sunshine. Our minds began to quiet and our pace slowed down as we not only reconnected with each other, but also with nature and the land. A large portion of guests at StolenTime are repeat visitors, and I can see how you can get connected to the place itself.

It’s also people who make a place feel like a home away from home, and the staff at StolenTime were friendly and welcoming. Matt pointed out how much laughter was heard throughout the resort, from the staff interacting with each other to joking around with guests. This feeling of community added to the resort’s comfortable atmosphere.

Matt’s PADI instruction in the pool at StolenTime. PHOTO: Holly Corbett

Matt’s playful, competitive side came out when pickleball instructors Gemma and Miles challenged us to our first-ever match, and continued to encourage us to try new activities throughout the week. Sandra, who has worked at the resort for around 30 years and plans the weddings and vow renewal ceremonies, had a wide smile and a gentle ease about her as she helped me plan a private candle-lit dinner on the beach, and a romantic breakfast in bed. The staff at the onsite SCUBA and water sports center were fun and knowledgeable, helping Matt to learn the ropes of SCUBA diving first in the hotel’s pool before taking us out to sea, all while sharing stories about life on the island.

What To Do

I’d never experienced an all-inclusive before this vacation, and I loved not having to think about considering the cost of every activity, carrying a wallet or how much to tip for everything (though not required, visitors have the choice to show their appreciation by leaving a tip envelope at the end of the stay, removing decision-making pressure in the moment).

With a daily schedule of activities ranging from sunrise meditations on the beach to sip-and-paint classes to water skiing lessons to hikes to the Gros Piton, guests can choose to do as many activities as they want—or choose to do nothing at all but sit at the swim-up bar.

Matt and I found ourselves falling into a gentle daily rhythm, beginning the day strolling the beach hand in hand, followed by eating tropical fruit and eggs al fresco before deciding between heading to the beach studio for a morning yoga class or one of the dozens of other daily activities, or deciding to go it alone, such as by taking out the stand-up paddleboards to explore. We both like adventure and to try new things, so we balanced our time lounging by the pool and taking advantage of the many classes, such as trying a couples’ massage class at the Spa in the Water Garden, Hobie Cat sailing lessons at the water activity center, and wine tasting at the Champagne Bar to the soundtrack of a jazz piano player.

There’s an onsite SCUBA diving center (diving excursions are extra charges), where guests can sign up for dives and even get PADI certified. Having the center onsite was so easy because we just had to roll out of bed to meet our group for a two-tank dive to the Anse La Raye Wall. I’m PADI certified and Matt is not, so I was thrilled there was a way for him to join me on the dives. Matt finished his pool instruction in preparation the day before, and we paid extra to have a private dive master dive stay with us, as is required for non-certified divers. Exploring the underwater world together and spotting marine life such as a manta ray was an epic way to make new memories together and learn more about the ocean we all depend on.

Where To Eat

There were three dining options on site, but our favorite by far was the Malabar Beach Club, which had tables set up right on the beach under the cover of a tent. We ate barefoot with our toes in the sand. It’s open for lunch and dinner most nights and features locally-sources ingredients. I’m a fan of the fresh-caught, grilled dorado.

Breakfast was a big buffet offering eggs and pancakes made to order at the open-air Terrace Restaurant, also with ocean views. Terrance Restaurant also does a nice beach barbecue dinner on Fridays, complete with tiki torches. The third and final restaurant, Thyme Restaurant, is also the fanciest. It’s the only indoor restaurant with silver-plated silverware and crystal glasses that serves up French and St. Lucian fusion dishes.

To explore the local food scene, we ventured into the nearby town of Gros Islet on Friday night for the much-talked about fish fry and street party. We waited in a line that stretched down the street for the much-worth-it red snapper cooked over coals. We spent the rest of the night dancing with islanders and tourists alike to music played by local DJs.

Our most special meal was the private ‘Dinner Under the Stars’ that Sandra helped me to arrange (an extra charge). As the sun melted behind the ocean and the first points of light started to dust the evening sky, Matt and I strolled a tiki-torch lined path to our pop-up table on the beach for a truly romantic dinner that included dorado mille-feuille and chocolate dipped-fruit. We had our own waiter and a private patch of beach that was all ours for the evening.

As we toasted to the last night of our anniversary trip, we made new vows to not need to steal time, but to take it unapologetically—and to never forget to stop and look up at the stars. Time, after all, goes by regardless, and our getaway reminded us to be more intentional about how we spend it.

How To Get There

From North America, direct service to Saint Lucia is available on American Airlines from Miami, Charlotte, and Philadelphia; on JetBlue from New York and Boston; on Delta from Atlanta; and on United Airlines from New Jersey and Chicago.

The best airport to fly in to is Hewanorra International Airport (UVF) in Vieux Fort as it’s the largest airport. It’s a little more than an hour drive to where StolenTime is located in the northern part of the island. The resort can arrange transfers for guests in advance.

When To Go

December through April is typically the dry season and when the weather is warmest.  Wet season is typically June through November, but the rain tends to come in short, heavy bursts and the temperatures are still warm. Wet season tends to have lower prices and less crowds.

StolenTime has a calendar of Feature Months to encourage guests to try activities outside of their comfort zones and build new skills. If you’re interested in diving, their ‘Dive Into Spring’ offering happens March through April and includes marine conservation workshops, introductory free diving classes, and advanced Scuba Clinics. In the fall they offer ‘Octoba Yoga,’ which combines daily yoga lessons, intention-setting ceremonies, and Tai Chi and meditation classes.

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